(Bridge at Victoria Falls looking toward Zimbabwe from the Zambia side)
An attempt to use the Mopane road finds us really stuck about 3 km from the Lodge. The road had temporarily disappeared under about a foot or two of water from yesterday's heavy rain and it was hard to follow or to pick out the best path while underway -- stopping was out of the question as the result would be to sink immediately in sand and black mud up to the axles. Luckily Ian and a guide happened upon us after I inevitably made a bad choice as to which track to follow. Ian interrupted a birding walk to give us a hand: finally taking over the wheel when he suggested that he would like "to give it a bit of a go".
He got it out of the worst spot and it was spectacular -- revving it up all the way. Ian stood the Hilux up on its rear wheels and it leaped out of the muck. My rather wan explanation for multiple failures was that Trevor had always insisted that we not spin the wheels as it would dig the vehicle in deeper. Ian clarified that a bit: "that is true in [dry] sand but in deep mud you do it differently. The Hilux can take it -- you need to push it more." So Chapter 3 and 4 of "How to Drive a 4X4 in Africa" is provided by our friend. We pulled away gratefully and this would subsequently prove to be the last time I would need help to free the truck.
We had breakfast at the Lodge office and left the truck there deciding we would attract fewer touts if we went to Victoria Falls in a taxi.
(Low water in the Zambezi meant good visibility from the path overlooking the cataract)
(Peering over the edge: a Zodiac carries a group of tourists into turbulent water)
(A classic view of Victoria Falls)
(The park is serene and uncrowded: Carole and Jeff on a footbridge)
I found our fellow visitors to the Falls almost as interesting as the waterfall and we left with enough time to look for the "crying baby" music and to pick up more supplies for the Lodge and to get the cash needed for our Lodge bill at the ATM. I took a too short 30 minute tour of the museum and we successfully make a rendezvous with an American couple coming down from Lusaka. Brett has asked that we meet them and guide them back to the Lodge.
Again we were hopeful that the Lodge truck that met us would show us the drier village route but they chose the Mopane route. We do not get stuck but it is again a very wild ride. But this morning's lessons have stuck with me. While being ferried back to Bovu in the mokoros we learn that our American female companion is from Concord, North Carolina. This sets the stage for a very pleasant final evening at the Lodge. Although the Danes and the French group have departed, the mood is still very warm and fraternal. We are to leave in the morning and decide to leave with the South Africans and Ian and Ruth. We feel very close to the staff and the rest of the guests -- particularly Ian and Ruth who have regaled us with stories of their experiences each evening. Ian has invited us to see him at Otse -- the small town where he lives in Botswana and I think it likely that I will take him up on this later in the trip. Will spends a lot of time with the American couple and learns that he is inspired by Paul Farmer and is at the Harvard Medical School. His companion has been stationed in Lusaka.
Our only disappointment is that the CD we have purchased in town is not the "crying baby" but nothing can really spoil the evening. Brett is fine form and continues to illustrate for Will and Jeff what the old "beats" were like. He reminds me a great deal of Harry Smith and his free association style of conversation. We all compare notes on itineraries and reluctantly and finally say good night to all of our friends -- guests and staff alike. It will be hard for me to leave this wonderful place tomorrow.
Labels: Bovu Island, Livingstone, Victoria Falls
¶ 3:01 PM
