(Old "Windpompe", Kalahari Trails Nature Reserve, RSA)

We are ready at 6:15 AM for the guided walk with Prof. The decision to stay here and learn something about the Kalahari is wise: we have our own private Attenborough to guide us. Prof is another example of a woman living and working as a naturalist – more or less alone – in Africa.

(Professor Anne Rasa's cactus garden: one of the learning resources provided to guests at Kalahari Trails Nature Reserve)

Our walk on her reserve, which she is restoring to its original state, keeps us completely pre-occupied for three hours or so. Starting with the underlying geology of the region and the climatology, we move on the plants, insects and animals. Social spiders, robber flies, scorpions, ants, acacias and camelthorn trees and the ways in which they are all interwoven.

(Prof observes a raid by one species of ant on another species of ant, Kalahari Trails Nature Reserve)

It seems that the entire region has a clay “lens” that traps and holds a substantial amount of the scant annual rainfall. This substrate beneath the sand and the groundwater reservoir created there provide the Kalahari’s character and is a foundation for the unique and multiple adaptations found among the plants and animals.

We return for a huge breakfast with Renata, Prof’s assistant, who trained as an hotelier in her native Switzerland but continued her education as a naturalist and guide in South Africa. We sign up for the night drive with Renata and have some fun looking at Prof’s insect collection.

Learning to Look More Nicely

The San or the Bushmen as they are more commonly known are a source of great interest to all who visit the Kalahari. They compose about 40 percent of the population of my son’s village and therefore of the village school where he teaches in a distant district in Namibia. Prof has already introduced us to desert “spoor” and tracking today and in generously spending some private time with Will and me also mourned the loss of the San headman and tracker who taught her so well.

“So we paused at a set of four hoof prints and he turned and asked me ‘Now what happened here?’” Identifying the prints as those of a female springbok, Prof was able to see only that she had paused at that spot. Her teacher then said “Yes, but you must look more nicely.”

“Do you see how the front hoof prints are pressed more deeply in the sand in the front? This is where the mother called to her fauns”

Prof had taught us earlier that the mother springbok leave their young alone in the shade while they graze. If a predator approaches the only defense the fauns have is to be perfectly still. When the mother approaches she will call the fauns out from their cover and in doing so stretch their heads and necks forward, digging their front hooves down in a certain way.

“You must look more nicely” was the advice the tracker always provided. And now we have just lost him and all he knew about the desert. Dead with nine others in a drunken, head-on collision between two overloaded vehicles. “He came here before he set out and I warned him not to drive – and the driver of the other vehicle was drunk as well.”

The Prof is really growing on me: we drive off the neighbor’s herd of goats whose coughing spreads contagion to her antelopes; when I ask her about climate change in this region she scoffs and takes the position that in the long run the earth will return to a normal state (in the spirit of The World without Us). http://www.worldwithoutus.com/

This pupil of Konrad Lorenz is however saving her corner of the planet. We go on a night game drive with Renata.

(Beginning the game drive -- a red track on a restored section of the Reserve)

(Renata examines the carcass of a juvenile secretary bird -- specialized carrion beetles will devour the feathers while other beetles consume the soft parts of the corpse)

(An ostrich: the number are limited due a propensity to uproot the specialized vegetation, Kalahari Trails Nature Reserve)

(A large social weaver bird nest has partly fallen to the base of this acacia tree -- we have a chance to see it in detail)

(The social weaver nest looking up -- although the entrances are vertical, predatory snakes are still able to enter the individual nests by a special method of climbing)

(We examine the nest carefully to avoid snakebite -- more than 30 pairs of birds nest cooperatively in the massive structures)

The spot lights and the proximity of the game on the reserve are a lot of fun. We observe many that are nocturnal and many that are browsing much closer to the road than during the day.

(Sundowner: Will, Renata, and her mother share a laugh -- it seems that visiting your children in Africa is a shared custom)

Labels: Kalahari Trails Nature Reserve, Professor Anne Rasa

¶ 1:22 PM 0 Comments

("Coffee, Fast Food, Barbecue Restaurant"... on the R27 heading north towards Upington)

A late start due to the fatigue factor (it has been a busy week). The Karoo proves to be very interesting to us: the realization that it is all what we would call “ranch land” adds to the imagination. Giant vistas and distances. Small towns contain almost all the population – there are no visible signs of habitation in between except wire fences. Huge social weaver bird nests on the telephone poles.

(Wire fences and weaver birds -- along the R27, Northern Cape Province, RSA)

Hot sun but the air is refreshing. Some dust and dust devils outside of Boesmanland Service Station (and Takeaways). Can’t find food in Kenhardt (everything seems to be closed on Sundays in the old Boer Republics) so we press on to Upington.

We buy food for our stay in the Transfrontier Park at SPAR in Upington. Will chews me out for giving some rand to the street kids. Almost forget to refuel but after doubling back and filling up we set out for the Kalahari Trails Nature Reserve (and Lodge) http://www.kalahari-trails.co.za/

(Losing the light and underestimating the "drive time" -- the R360 north of Upington)

We arrive late (for dinner) and well after dark. Tried calling ahead to update the lodge as to our whereabouts but unfamiliarity with the operator assisted system here defeats us. We cannot seem to complete the call and connect. Professor Anne Rasa forgives us (Did we come to some bad end? Get lost?) and all is fine in the end.

(We are still pushing hard but must slow down now -- the R360 at sunset)

We are treated to a good meal and a beer or two. We sign up for the early morning tour with “Prof” who will introduce us to “the little Kalahari” and therefore provide us with some understanding of the desert we are visiting.

(A walk around the Lodge after dinner: the giant millipedes that awe)

Labels: Kalahari Trails Nature Reserve, Upington

¶ 11:28 AM 0 Comments

We settle up at the Green Elephant (a very friendly staff and a bargain to boot). After picking up the snatch rope at the marine supply in nearby Salt River we get on the road (N7) for Calvinia.

(The N7 north with no one tailgating -- why using the paved shoulder as a "carriageway" is daunting: note the vehicle entering the highway ahead and the cyclist)

Vineyards; citrus groves; wineries; the irrigation canals and dam at Clanwilliam. Rock dassies; a kori bustard; and an ostrich.

(The view from Hilux -- driving north on the N7)

We opt for the paved R357 and the Vanrhynsdorp Pass vs. the unpaved R364 and the northern portion of the Cederberg Wilderness Area (the scenic route) because of our late start and the slow climbing rate of our diesel. Small loss as the route (climbing the escarpment 800 meters) is spectacular anyway.

(Will at the wheel of the Hilux -- heading east on R357)

(Approaching the escarpment - Vanrhynsdorp Pass, R357)

(At the top of the escarpment -- looking west on R357)

We pound along the empty tableland at sunset, the air temperature at our new altitude having dropped dramatically, and make Calvinia just at dark.

(Empty, beautiful table land -- the Hantam Karoo before Calvinia at dusk)

We make good use of the GPS I brought along – another fortuitous piece of pre-trip prep. It becomes essential as the method by which wrong turns are eliminated, fuel stops are planned, and all anxiety is eliminated (estimating very accurately how long it will take to reach a destination versus how much day light remains). We have been warned repeatedly against driving at night.

The GPS is the Garmin GPSMAP 60 CSx bought on deep discount in the US. The software is the invaluable “wiki” community Tracks4Africa downloaded from their site here: http://www.tracks4africa.com/

The GPA/wiki combination allowed us to know our location at all times and to locate all of our destinations along the route (including telephone numbers) plus shopping, food (stores, “takeaway” or restaurants), fuel stops, plus other essentials including road hazards, police and veterinary road checks. The cost was nominal and (to repeat) the value enormous.

So often – within a couple of kilometers from the camp site or other lodging -- the light was failing and it was difficult to determine which unsigned dirt track to follow. The GPS always pointed us in the right direction.

Calvinia is the quintessential Afrikaner town: Trevor had described the annual braii contest/festival that is held there. The Hantam Hotel another pleasant time warp: welcoming and nice in an old-fashioned way. A youngish bar patron “well-away” loudly discusses (with us as his captive audience) what I assumed was every politically taboo subject you might list in South Africa. We did not get tossed out by angry patrons but we were reminded how unpopular the US government is even in these removes (the Hantam Karoo).

But this is all meant as a courtesy as American tourists traveling on their own are uncommon in many parts of Africa. And the white population, particularly the Afrikaners, have a tradition of generous hospitality to travelers. They (and perhaps equally the English, German and Portuguese native population) want to be understood. We drink up with a proffered Jaegermeister (Will tells me to get used to it) and I am off to our room after a loving phone conversation with my wife.

Sound asleep until awakened by mosquitoes (I had left the window open assuming it was too dry for them to breed). “Doom” – the local brand of insect spray – is effective and thankfully provided by the hotel. I decide to pick up a can at the next opportunity.

Labels: Calvinia, Vanrhynsdorp

¶ 2:03 PM 0 Comments

I drop off Will at 7:00 AM at the V & A Waterfront to pick up Robben Island tour ticket cancellations. Back to Drive Africa to pick up the truck – now packed by Leon (their friendly and knowledgeable SA mechanic) with all of the camping equipment. Will meets me at Drive Africa with two tickets! We make plans to go to the Table Mountain cable cars at noon and Robben Island at 3:00 PM. We take a kombi downtown. We eat at a place we found and like and get a cab for the cable car station but are disappointed to learn from the driver that the cable cars have been closed due to high winds (and more clouds). We substitute a scenic overlook tour via the cab. The driver provided a running commentary which was a worth the extra fare – never mind all the beautiful overlooks.

(Will and our cab driver looking out over Table Bay, Robben Island in the distance)

(The Foreshore and wharves, Table Bay, Cape Town)

(The Central Business District and Devil's Peak, Cape Town)

We walk down to the ferry only to be told that the Robben Island tour is canceled due to bad weather (too much chop in the bay). We absorb this disappointment (after three days of trying) and after some more walking (to the train station) we board a commuter train for Fish Hoek.

(View from the commuter train looking south over False Bay toward Fish Hoek)

This turns out to be fortuitous as the afternoon provides fine weather. Fish Hoek and its approaches on Kalk Bay remind me (in miniature) of certain seaside towns in England. We return but leave the train at the Rondebosch Station in order to walk around the campus of the University of Cape Town. Will is considering the International Baccalaureate program – possibly in South Africa -- so this is doubly interesting.

(A view of the central, formal part of the campus, University of Cape Town)

(And two views of the informal campus: students "get up" on a pedestrian underpass, University of Cape Town -- second image shows defacing/erasing "The Homos Still Govern")

(A football "pitch" and another view of the formal campus of the University of Cape Town)

We end up at the Chinese Restaurant (again) unexpectedly as Observatory is the site of yet another movie shoot and the Indian restaurant we had hoped to visit is reserved for the film crew. We saw four different movie location “shoots” while in Cape Town (this includes the one we had just encountered at the University). Will is desperate for “ethnic” food after weeks of cooking for himself in his village in Namibia – so the Chinese food is not entirely unwelcome.

(Cecil Rhodes statue: "I dream my dream...." -- looking north at University of Cape Town)

Labels: Cape Town, Fish Hoek, University of Cape Town

¶ 11:01 AM 0 Comments

(The Clock Tower, Victoria and Albert Waterfront, Cape Town: Nelson Mandela Gateway to Robben Island is just beyond to the right and symbolically "out-of-sight" and out-of-reach)

We get up early and arrive at the Robben Island tour office only to learn that the available places on the tour had gone to those who had arrived at 7:00 AM (or earlier). So -- we will try again tomorrow. We continue picking up items I consider important for the trip but Will is skeptical – to say the least.

(Walking around the "CBD" in Cape Town: St. Mary's Cathedral)

Cape Union for shirts, a few music CD’s at the Victoria & Albert Waterfront, a camp towel (Cape Union again), a marine supply store to order the static snatch rope, another trip to Drive Africa involving the electric air pump. Will’s patience is exhausted and we detour to the District Six Museum – a welcome and beneficial break.

(An old Cape Town neighborhood like District Six: Salt River, Cape Town)

We walk all over the city center again: Long (Lang ) Street, backpacker center(s), government buildings, the Castle of Good Hope, but no cable cars due to the cloud cover obscuring Table Mountain.

(The Castle of Good Hope and moat, Cape Town: Mt. Prospect and Devil's Peak in the background)

Good food (and a relaxing bar) however. Very welcome to offset our fatigue from the late hours (the previous night). Returned to the Green Elephant, washed clothes in the laundry there, and read about the Donner Party(!). A Chinese dinner cements the good mood.

Wednesday, November 29, 2006

(A GAME SIGHTING(!): Cape Fur Seals at Victoria and Albert Waterfront)

My son’s patience is tried as we go over all of my lists: the goal is to leave for Calvinia on Saturday (breaking up the trip to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park into two days). Trevor approves as Calvinia is a classic Afrikaner town. We head downtown to see Cape Town after dropping off our electric air pump at Drive Africa to be fixed or replaced (the light plastic tubing melts under the strain of inflating four truck tires).

("Africa" by Brett Murray, St. George Mall, Cape Town)

New and used bookstores to replenish Will’s home library back in his village, my first visit to a PEP store (to buy an inexpensive cell phone and airtime), a big walking tour all over with special emphasis on tsotsis and safety.

(Ships in Drydock at Alfred Basin, Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, Table Mountain in background, Cape Town)

We rendezvous with Richard -- Will’s Peace Corps instructor in the Herero language (our cell phones are working well) and we all decide on a new Ethiopian place for dinner. A good choice – we see Richard off afterwards and head back to the Green Elephant. Robben Island and the Table Mountain cable cars are on our “to-do” list before we leave on Saturday. We are advised to get to the Robben Island ticket window at 9:00 AM the next day to pick up tickets made available by cancelled reservations. We stay up late talking anyway.

Labels: Cape Town

¶ 11:51 AM 0 Comments

Got teased by Iris at Drive Africa for my lack of German punctuality but thought 10 minutes was forgivable under the circumstances (jet lag and a generous time cushion before our rendezvous with the 4X4 instructor). Met Trevor Knutsen at the Total station about 25 km north of Cape Town on time despite a couple of wrong turns getting on the freeway in Cape Town and the classic blunder (almost) of turning into the oncoming traffic (driving on the left vs. driving on the right). I (almost) did this once more later in the trip but managed to avoid serious mistakes for 25,000 km of driving over the next several months. This is due in no small part to the training that I received from Trevor who turned out to be an incredibly patient and competent instructor: trevk@lantic.net or http://www.allterrain4x4.co.za/contact_details.htm

(Trevor Knutsen and Will Garneau -- at Atlantis with Table Mountain and Cape Town in the background)

After reviewing the route of our planned trip, Trevor thought that practicing in deep sand was the best use of our day-long course. We headed up to Atlantis on the R27 after picking up the necessary permits at the township office. An area of massive sand dunes with designated 4X4 trails, it was ideal for our purposes.

(Trevor maps out the route with Will -- Atlantis, South Africa)

Will and I were exposed to many situations including those involving retrieving the Hilux when stuck in deep sand. South Africans have developed eco-friendly techniques for treeless savannas involving snatch ropes (static and dynamic) and tire pressure adjustments which proved themselves over and over on the trip.

(Trevor provided tire pressures for every situation: getting ready to deflate this one and we will pump them up many more times before the trip is over)

The climbing ability, excellent condition, and all-around ruggedness of the diesel Hilux were apparent.

(Getting Unstuck: attaching the shackles and a dynamic snatch rope to the towing points -- and don't screw the pins down all the way)

I had off-road, 4X4 experience many years before but my farm driving was relevant only in that it had instilled respect in me for the hazards high-clearance (and high center of gravity) vehicles face.

(Driving off the ridge of a sand dune with Trevor coaching in the background: "whatever you do, keep your wheels straight!")

Trevor’s training also included highway driving and South African road etiquette which was invaluable. We were already well aware of the number of tourists (and locals) who end up rolling their vehicles on Namibia’s gravel roads. Trevor also covered personal security (carjacking, robbery, etc.) and emphasized this facet of safety in very useful ways. South Africans also routinely use the paved shoulders of their highways as a driving lane (“carriageway”) for slower vehicles (although it is illegal and takes some skill and practice to pull off without causing an accident or a “prang”). My notes and tire pressure chart (individualized for the Hilux) ended up in a laminated plastic sleeve and was referred to constantly throughout the trip. And knowing I am repeating myself: That we covered all of the kilometers safely was due in no small measure to Trevor. The fee was very modest – especially considering the value provided and it was a lot of fun too! South Africa is really a great place: all of the South Africans I met in my past had predicted I would love it and they are correct.

Labels: 4X4 Training, Atlantis, Cape Town, Trevor Knutsen

¶ 5:19 PM 0 Comments